Climbing in Wales

The nuts museum!

2007-04-21T02:49:00.000Z

Hi folks!

In order to distract myself a bit from the final year report which I have to submit soon, I was surfing around in the entertaining internet, looking for new climbing stuff. Thereby I came across an actually nice website: www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsmuseum.htm

A museum about nuts, cams and a lot more about comical and bizarre protection devices in the still young history of rock climbing. It's absolutly awesome! Here you can find all about the history and the evolution of the first nuts. And when I say nuts, then I actually mean SCREW nuts! ;-) .
Also the article about the history of cams is worth a visit. I actually didn't know that there were so many different concepts of 'Adjustable Expanding Protections'. Many of them are looking really adventurously and self-made.
But the museum is interesting not only concerning the technical stuff. You can find as well, some nice story’s about the sometimes crazy characters who developed and tested the new gear. For example the nice story why a cam is sometimes called a "friend". But that, you should read yourself. :-)

Enjoy...

First ascent of a 6a+

2007-03-12T13:42:00.000Z

In order to have a little mnemonic of ascents of my climbing friends and me, I am going to make by-and-by some posts of our most imortant climbings.

At the 8th of March Rocka and I had again a trip to the Trevor Rocks Area in the Clwyd Limestone in Wales. It was a bit windy but overall a nice and sunny day. We were not sure of our fitnisses, because the night before there was a funny fancy dress party, with a couple of Carlings at the Students Union of NEWI. ;-)

First we started with easy routes of 5, 5+ and a 6a and we became confident to try something harder. So finally I climbed on-sight "Forever the Suspect" a 14m 6a+ with 'Very nice climbing up the calcite wall past a rock scar.' from Gary Gibson (09/07/05). After me Rocka climbed the route in red point. His first 6a+ at all!

Later I've tryed a 6b and did it almost, but I've avoided a difficulty and risky move under the second last bolt and put the quickdraw finally in a bolt of a parallel route, 2m at the right side. So this will be a nice project for the next visit to the Trevor Rocks.

At this link you can find a comparison of the most important international climbing grades.

Weather forecast for the Clwyd rocks!

2007-03-01T15:47:00.000Z

Hi!

Unfortunatly we are highly dependend on good weahter. Well, we are in Britain the european country of the bad weather ;-), but at least it shouldn't rain when we are climbing. Therewith we don't miss a sunny day, you get the weather forecast here!

Enjoy yourself, Hanke

Photos from the last trip to Clwyd!

2007-03-01T15:30:00.000Z

Clwyd Valley - Wales

ROCKCLIMBING!

2007-03-01T12:44:00.000Z

Hello!

The winter is amlost over and it is getting warmer! So it is actually time for rockclimbing! :-) There are amazing limestone rocks next to Llangollen in the Clwyd valley.
By car it is reachable in 20 min from Wrexham. But by bus, as well, it is not a problem. It is half the way to Llangollen (20 min). From the busstop it is a nice walk of 30 min to reach the rocks. I am going to upload some photos in the next time. First you can have a look at ukclimbing.com. This is a really nice database of climbing routes all over in GB.

I have a 60 m rope and gear for sportclimbing and easyer British Traditional climbing routes (no bolts).

I want to go there as often as possible, because I actually prefer climbing outside! :-) So if you are interested to come with us, write a comment to the Blog.

See you, Hanke

Trips to climbing halls

2007-03-01T12:15:00.000Z

Hi folks!

I try to climb at least two times a week! Unfortunately the bloody weather in GB tends to be very rainy! So the most of the time we are going to the local climbing hall in Wrexham. Mostly on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday.
Usually on Fridays we are going to climb in Liverpool in an old church. It is really great there!
So if you are interested, write a comment to the blog or send me a mail!

See you.... Hanke